The Darkness Is Creeping In

Posted February 27th, 2010 by Paudie 7 Comments

Lets give it four hours, it’ll probably be icey.

Shannon to Sligo, doable, need to reach Shannon first.

I do and stay up too late chatting about LUE.

0500 ding ding, up you get sunshine.

Weetabix: check Sultanas: check Soya milk: check.

Ice was forecast, but there is only a light dusting, no need for water, just get in and go.

The county councils seem to have learned from their mistakes as there is a new an abundance of grit dirtying my recently washed car. But at least I can drive at the limit now.

I fly along the motorway trusting that other cars will have their fog lights on. I always regret my driving afterwards, but in the moment getting to the surf supersedes anything else. It is a stupid choice to drive this fast.

My back and neck begin to ache and I’m getting a headache. I realise I’m sitting hunched right up over the steering wheel. The combination of concentrating on the small distance my lights give and the oppressive fog pushing down on top of me is wearing me out. I feel claustrophobic, as if the fog is physically pushing me down into crouch.

There is no let up. I get to Tuam and decide I can take a break. Half an hour power nap will relax me a bit and give the fog time to clear a bit.

I hit the road again with a bit more brightness. I don’t know if this is better or worse. No there’s a few idiots who think because it’s past 7am they don’t need the lights. One car happily flashes me back when I try to get his attention. But as I continue the fog starts to lift a bit.

I begin to get horrible flashbacks to my last adventure in fog.

I arrive in Enniscrone too early despite my mid-trip nap. It’s still foggy.

Freezing Foggy.

I meet up with Cain, we chill for a while talking about what to do. The wave I came up to shoot won’t be working for another few hours so we cruise the coast looking for something to keep us occupied.

We find a little bay with a few waves coming through. There’s a bit of slab around the corner but tide is already too high for it, although it’s hard to resist the barrels I can just glimpse over a ridge of grass.

No point jumping in the water, much more likely to get shots from land despite the distance.

I start wandering looking for interesting angles. Land shooting is bloody boring but you make up by being able to move around to get different angles and actually compose shots properly.

And you have more options of things to shoot during the lulls.

My battery is almost dead now. I regret not arranging some signal with Cain before hand. He stays in picking off the best ones, always trying something interesting.

Eventually he comes in and we head back to the house to refuel ourselves and our electronics.

By the time we get all our stuff together it’s time to head over to the main event.

We arrive to a seething cauldron of white water.

Yeah Cain I think I’ll just shoot land here as well.

Ferg, Shane and Dyl are there as well and don’t waste time suiting and booting and entering the fray.

Dodging bombs is the order of the day, Shane nabs one followed by Dylan.

Ferg sits patiently out the back, waiting for something none of us can see.

It comes and he strokes in on the absolute wrong side of the peak. His knowledge becomes apparent as he sits tight letting the lip fold right over him, embracing and enclosing him. Fergal doesn’t seem to mind he had his line set before the wave even appeared on the horizon.

Cain is surfing a board much too big for the conditions and pays for it a number of times before he finally cranks hard off the bottom and tickles the face with his right hand. Braking just enough to get hosed by the spit then exit moments later to the hoots of all.

Moving Pictures

Posted December 11th, 2009 by Paudie No Comments

New movie I was a little bit involved in is out soon.
I still haven’t seen the full thing, but the sessions I was at were mind blowing and knowing Mickey it’ll be nothing but jaw dropping.
Trailer

FROM SHADOWS Trailer v1.0 from mickey smith on Vimeo.

Pre-order.
http://store.magicseaweed.com/From-Shadows-DVD/Item/2756/

Same old say mould

Posted November 5th, 2009 by Paudie 10 Comments

Isn’t physics fun.

It’s keeping me busy anyway. Lots of swell but lots of wind.

Backlit Beauty.

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Why do we prefer people to be humble? What’s wrong with promoting yourself . The best way to get jobs/sponsorships/media is get to meet as many people as possible or build a good profile for yourself. So why do we knock people who are trying to do this.

We want people to be brilliant but talk like they’re not. Is it because we don’t them shoving it in our face? Is it because we’re jealous? Do amazing things but don’t mention them, act like it’s nothing when others mention it to you. Fuck when I do something I’m proud of I like to talk about it. Sure I want peoples admiration, but then because of our nature I also feel bad about thinking what I did was special.

The human mind is a messed up place.

Number One

Posted October 23rd, 2009 by Paudie No Comments

So I have been playing with a video camera for the past two weeks and managed to get some clips together.

Hopefully you like. Feedback appreciated.

Number One from Paudie Scanlon on Vimeo.

Stop The Motion

Posted October 10th, 2009 by Paudie 3 Comments

All Day Session

They only really happen during summer, you can’t really call one longish session while it’s bright in winter an all day session.

It has to be ten hours plus of light to be an all day session.

The best part of those days, for me, is the drive home at night. When it’s just warm enough (or your still on an adrenaline kick) and you open the window to the pitch black country side.

Maybe meeting a few tractors with massive spotlights, making the most of the dry weather to do whatever it is they do on dry days (cut hay?). Maybe kill your own lights and drive by moonlight if you’re silly enough.

The air rushing by the window and blowing anything loose around the car.

Head still exploding with all you’ve seen today.

For once completely satisfied with surfing and already planning the next session.

Content.

But then the adrenaline wears off, you realise all you’ve eaten today was an apple in the morning, and maybe some wedges or a roll if you thought of it. Hopefully you got some unsalted water as well.

You start to drift off.

We’ve all done it.

It’s stupid, but you convince yourself you’ll be better off just getting home and then sleeping. No point stopping o nthe side of the road.

You’ll be grand.

Ok, find some good music. Something you can sing along to normally does the trick.

But one night Herbie ( my sentient mp3 player) decided to surprise me and picked a track I hadn’t heard before.

So this is a thank you to Herbie and Moby.

You saved my life.

Isolation…

Posted August 24th, 2009 by Paudie 1 Comment

… is

_MG_8470

Spending the weekend with no signal.

By the time Pete dropped me off home we had covered over 850km, and he still had at least another 150km to go.

Two photographers, one swell, no surfers.

I’m totally going to blog about this

Some people had their doubts but it had to be a good swell, that low was lining up too nicely to not deliver.

Some people were right.

It didn’t deliver, well not where I was anyway.

_MG_8468

But we did get to surf ourselves which is always nice, and I did get to find out that my barrel riding skills are pretty much non existent, unless it’s Easky left, where I rule.

All I got for my trouble was a few slits in my hand and 8 urchin spines in my left foot. It’s good to have an amateur acupuncturist dad around at times like that (only a bit of one spine remains).

Imagine that everybody was productive 100% of the time, imagine how much we could get done.

I spent at least two hours today reading meaningless facts on the web. Thanks to the Irish education system I’m well able to memorise and recall a lot of pointless shite, but try and get me to understand a new concept and it might take a while. Which is not the handiest when I’m meant to be doing innovative research.

I hope you managed to get wet anyway.

If you have the time Fergal Smith has been put forward to be a contestant for the Eddie, which is amazing. He definitely deserves it and you can help him by going to this site and voting for him.

Also Mickey Smith has been nominated in the 2009 Surfer Poll for this photo of Fergal.

You can go here, click on the Vote for a Photo image and then pick Mickeys image. You can pick other images if you want, but Mickey’s is fucking ridiculously awesome. The best way to appreciate it is to see it in the opening spreads of the Surfer Big Issue with the Irish feature. In shops now, check it out.

Time Wasting Bonanza

Posted May 26th, 2009 by Paudie No Comments

Hi there boys and girls, loads of new Irish footage on the ole tube.

Stevo has put up a rake of stuff of the boys, available here. Mostly our favourite former insurance company but some other spots as well.

Barrels!

http://www.youtube.com/user/stevokinevo123

And there’s some sick footage of Cain and Ferg here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNDIJ9Pj9vs